Sunday, 13 April 2014

Why do some side pockets not sit flat?

Why do some side pockets not sit flat?

You will find this especially on tighter skirts and on pants.

The side seam can tend to develop a funny crease.

This can even happen on shop  bought clothes.

This is the reason, 

Think slightly outside the square for a minute. Actually, REALLY outside the square!

Imagine a stream running down a hill.

The water will take the path of the least resistance.

This happens to fabric too.
The pocket bag has no holding point , and the fabric moves away from your stomach and bulges out of the exposed part of the pocket. The side seam gets that crease....


Put the garment on inside out.

Measure the distance between the seams of each pocket and cut a square of fabric about 3 cm bigger than that, by about  15cm.  Its a large patch that you are going to put in between the two pockets.

Pin the fabric onto the seam of the pocket bag , making sure you pull the  pocket bag back into alignment on both sides,so that the pockets dont stray outwards.
Try it on before you do any sewing!

If its a skirt, and there is no front opening, pin the fabric to the waist finishing .

Trim the excess off, allowing for seam allowance. Finish edges with a serger. its easier to do this before sewing.

Sew piece into the garment. Some parts it may be easier to hand sew ( onto waistline finishings, for example)



Same as above, but now you must see which kind of opening you need to deal with, fly opening, zipper, front placket etc.

Have a look into some jeans, at the pocket bags. Some are shaped like  basset hounds ears,
 and some will look like this.

not a great photo, but can you see how the pocket bag goes into the zip opening?
Look for pants/ patterns with a pocket that goes into the front opening and your bulging problems will be gone!

No comments:

Post a Comment